Total Pageviews

Friday, 25 April 2025

RAJASTHAN RHAPSODY (BIKANER) 2025: Day 03

 BIKANER BECKONS

LALLGARH PALACE, SADUL MUSEUM, CAMEL CENTRE & KARNI MATA TEMPLE


The final day dawned with a wonderfully unhurried pace. We had not opted for the camel cart ride. A leisurely morning unfolded, culminating in a sumptuous breakfast – the perfect fuel for an afternoon packed with activities! Who needed a siesta when such exciting adventures awaited? We were buzzing with anticipation!

Post-lunch, our luxurious bus appeared, ready to whisk us away to the legendary city of Bikaner! After all, having journeyed to the serene Gajner, a rendezvous with its vibrant neighbour was an absolute must!

1. THE LALLGARH PALACE

We left for Bikaner soon after lunch. Soon, the initial gentle bumps of the Gajner roads gave way to the smooth road on the highway to Bikaner. A mere 30 kilometres later, we arrived at our first jewel, the magnificent Lallgarh Palace


The entry to Lallgarh Palace, Bikaner


The magnificent Lallgarh Palace, Bikaner

Oh my goodness, what a sight! This red sandstone marvel stood proud, whispering tales of Rajputana grandeur, British elegance, and Mughal artistry all intertwined. It was crafted nearly two centuries ago, with the visionary Sir Swinton Jacob as its principal architect.



 
2. SHRI SADUL SINGH JI MUSEUM

Within the palace walls, we discovered the treasure trove, the Shri Sadul Singh ji Museum. The Museum is a heartfelt tribute to the former ruler of Bikaner, Sir Sadul Singh ji, son of Maharaja Ganga Singh, who ruled up to 1950 and was the first to accede to India in 1949. Don't let its size fool you – this museum was an Aladdin's cave of history! Royal finery, gleaming weapons, antique vessels, vibrant paintings, intricate sculptures, ancient coins – the sheer variety of the exhibits was breathtaking! We could have happily lost ourselves in its stories for an entire day. But the clock was ticking on this sunny afternoon, urging us to soak in as much as possible.

Returning to our bus, we found our water bottles depleted and our throats parched. Just then, a glorious sight appeared – a big cooler filled with ice-cold drinks, including the universally adored Amul Chhach! Once again, a silent cheer erupted for our incredible organizing team, whose meticulous care and attention to detail were outstanding. Two packs of refreshing chhach went down the throat, and the world felt much better! Our vigilant bus monitor counted heads and ensured everyone was back on board, and we continued with our Bikaner adventure!


3. NATIONAL CAMEL RESEARCH CENTRE




The young ones were happy romping around.

A short 10-kilometre hop brought us to the fascinating National Camel Research CentreWell, in the heart of the desert, the camel truly reigns supreme! Its importance here is undeniable, especially considering our long border with Pakistan, where these incredible creatures are the ultimate all-terrain means of transport, capable of traversing arid landscapes for days without water.

At the Camel Farm, a whole new world unfolded! We learned about the four distinct breeds – Bikaneri, Kachchhi, Jaisalmeri and Marwari! Each, we discovered, possessed unique qualities and capabilities, making them special. 


All the four varieties of camels are bred and trained here.


The centre was home to multitudes of these gentle giants, each breed diligently fulfilling its specific purpose. There were Bikaneri, Kachhi, Jaisalmeri and Mewari breeds. We even got a peek into the breeding and training facilities! 


This camel won the title of Miss Rajasthan in a Camel Beauty Contest.


The highlight of this visit? Meeting the former Miss Rajasthan from the Camel Beauty Contest! Though age had caught up with the poor dear, and a touch of cataract clouded her vision, her regal charm was still evident. Today's lesson in camel-ology was highly enriching! We gained a newfound appreciation for their breeding, training, and vital role in Rajasthan's desert life, both commercially and for national security. 

 

The price list of items sold


quick visit to the centre's showroom revealed a delightful array of camel-centric products! Camel milk (reputed to be a boon for diabetes!), creamy camel milk soap, soft shawls woven from camel wool, stylish bags and purses of camel skin, and even unique jewellery crafted from camel bones! Suddenly, everyone's inner shopper sprang to life!






With the sun beginning its descent, we made a beeline for our bus, replenishing our energy with chilled chhach and refreshing cold drinks. Our next stop was the revered Karni Mata Temple in Deshnoke, about 30 kilometres away. This temple, with its immense following, holds a unique distinction – it is home to a multitude of rats, considered sacred and allowed to roam freely! We were gently instructed to shuffle our feet rather than walk to avoid accidentally stepping on these tiny residents of the temple. Let me tell you, a little jump may have been involved when one scurried over my foot! While almost all the rodents sported a dark coat, a glimpse of a rare white rat is considered incredibly auspicious. One of our fellow travellers actually saw one and considered herself very fortunate. Alas! I had no such luck.


4. KARNI MATA TEMPLE

Our next stop was the revered Karni Mata Temple in Deshnoke, about 30 kilometres away. This temple, with its immense following, holds a unique distinction – it is home to a multitude of rats, considered sacred and allowed to roam freely! We were gently instructed to shuffle our feet rather than walk to avoid accidentally stepping on these tiny residents of the temple. Let me tell you, a little jump may have been involved when one scurried over my foot!  

While almost all the rodents sported a dark coat, a glimpse of a rare white rat is considered incredibly auspicious. One of our fellow travellers actually saw one and considered herself very fortunate. Alas! I had no such luck. Photography inside the temple was prohibited, a rule I was happy to abide by.


Karni Mata temple as seen from the main road


The entry to Karni Mata Temple


5. KARNI BHAWAN HOTEL


Karni Bhawan Hotel, Bikaner



Rajasthani folk artist displaying their skills

Our temple visit over, we reached the welcoming Karni Bhawan Hotel in Bikaner, the sister concern of Gajner Palace. A delectable buffet awaited us on the sprawling lawn, serenaded by vibrant rhythms and graceful movements of local folk dancers and musicians.

Utterly content after a day packed with exploration under the warm afternoon sun and a satisfying feast, we finally reached the tranquil terrain of Gajner to spend the night.

The following morning, we will bid farewell to this enchanting corner of Rajasthan, our flight to Delhi carrying not just our luggage but a treasure trove of unforgettable memories, new friendships forged, hearts brimming with nostalgia, and a wealth of rich experiences. What a magnificent and memorable adventure it was! It will always remain in our hearts as a cherished memory. 


*****


Saturday, 19 April 2025

RAJASTHAN RHAPSODY (GAJNER) 2025: Day 02 - 02

GAJNER’S GRAND FINALE

PHOTOSHOOT, INNATE TALENT AND LAKEFRONT MELODIES

 

Day two, afternoon, and the excitement was brewing! After enjoying the wildlife safari in the morning and a sumptuous breakfast later, we opted for a leisurely forenoon, exploring the sprawling complex of enchanting Gajner Palace. Those ancient trees? Majestic is an understatement!


Who is enjoying more? The parrots taking a bath or we watching their delight?

And the parrot party at the fountain? Pure avian delight! Plus, moments of peace under a sprawling Peepal tree with a cup of tea – unadulterated bliss!


The serene temple where one could seek blessings from Lord Shiva & Lord Ganesha in peace.

There was a small temple in front of our suite, with two statues, one of Lord Ganesha and the other of Lord Shiva with Shivaling, an ideal place for a peaceful prayer and uninterrupted meditation.

But the real buzz? The group photo was at 4 PM sharp! The dress code was in place. Our organisers had outdone themselves, crafting a royal Rajasthani experience, especially for the women. For the gents, dapper blue jackets. For the ladies? A pink lehenga dream! They had taken the trouble of dispatching the kurta fabric to us in advance, and we all had pre-stitched our kurtis. Opening the lehenga bag in the room, I was astonished to find a pack of safety pins with it to tuck the chunri in place! Talk about attention to detail! If I wore a hat, I would have doffed it for Rashi, who silently organised everything for us in the minutest detail.


The lively members of the group, women in Rajasthani Lehenga and men in their dapper blue jackets

We were required to assemble for the group photo at 4 PM as the light was ideal then. Now, the lehenga was a breeze, but the chunri? That was an altogether different story! Frantic reference to YouTube tutorials was of no use. Time was ticking away! Panic mode was setting in, especially with my Matha Patti refusing to stay in place. But hey, a little improvisation and a dash of determination pushed me to disregard the need for perfection. I was ready for my lehenga debut! And let me tell you, it was exciting! There has to be a first for everything! And for me, at this ripe old age, it was a godsent opportunity to flaunt a lehenga for the first time in my life. Oh! I was thrilled and decided to don dark shades too, “Tashan ke liye” as a true Dilliwali.

After the photo session, we indulged in some tea and snacks on the lawn, but the heat was a bit of a party pooper for the satin lehenga. A quick change later, and we were off to the lakeside for a musical extravaganza!


The rays of the setting sun playing with the still water of the Gajner lake.

The sun was setting over the lake! The breathtaking mix of hues was beyond description. It was impossible to decide which was better, the sunrise over the desert landscape or the shimmering sunset with reflections on the lake.

The musical evening started soon. And what an extravaganza it was! The members of our group, the 75-80-year-old rock stars, took the stage! Some could barely stand, but their voices? Pure gold! What a talent and splendid performance! Were they engineers? Top executives? Or secret Bollywood stars? We were left speechless!

The music flowed non-stop. The frequent applause echoed in the nearby jungle across the lake, and the evening stretched into the wee hours of the morning. It was a night of pure magic, a testament to the incredible spirit and talent of the group. Hats off to these superb individuals!

Gajner Palace was not just a destination; it was a stage for unforgettable memories, a celebration of life, and a reminder that talent knows no age! And remember, life is a song, so sing it loud without hesitation!

Stay tuned for more adventures! We still have a day left from our itinerary of visit to Bikaner as a part of our three-day Rajasthan Rhapsody.

(To continue)


*****

Wednesday, 16 April 2025

RAJASTHAN RHAPSODY (GAJNER) 2025: Day 02 - 01

 SUNRISE SAFARI 

THE WILD SIDE OF GAJNER DISCOVERED


Forget sleeping late in the morning on holidays! If adventure calls, we answer -- especially when it involves a sunrise safari in the heart of the desert of Rajasthan. Our mission was clear, to witness the raw beauty of Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary. And let me tell you, it was worth every early-morning yawn!

Picture this. It was 5:45 AM. A quick gulp of chai, and we were off! Casuals on, a hat in place, cameras ready, and a water bottle clutched tight – we were all set for a wildlife rendezvous. 

The gentle hues of dawn, as we approach the Sanctuary


The sun had not risen yet but one could feel its presence in the sky. The  sanctuary spanning over 48 square kilometres was nearby, just across the glistening lake. A not-so-long bumpy ride, and boom! We were in the thick of it, surrounded by the thorny beauty of the Keekar trees.

Glimpses of antelopes as we drive in

Our trusted driver, doubling as our guide, had already prepped us for the main attractions: Neel Gai, partridges, desert cat, Indian fox, maybe some wild boars, and…drumroll…blackbucks! Yes, those blackbucks! The ones with a bit of Bollywood fame and headline-making history!

A monument in the thick of jungle.

And no, there were no big cats like leopards, tigers and lions here. But this could be one of the proposed forests for the re-introduction of Cheetahs in India. 

As the weather had already become warm at the end of March, alas, the migratory birds had returned to their cooler climes. One could only see magnificent peacocks and parrots. 


More antelopes seen (Photo Credit Dr. Nalini Bhargava)

A Black Buck with its big twisted horns (Photo credit Dr. Nalini Bhargava)

A flash of black! We caught a glimpse of those elusive blackbucks, even if they were a tad camera-shy, thanks to a speedy getaway prompted by the car ahead of us. But fear not, we were not short on wildlife sightings! 

The strong bullish Neelgai

Blackbucks galore, Neelgais in their full glory, peacocks strutting their stuff, and the raw, untamed charm of the desert landscape.

And then, a historical gem! We stumbled upon these incredible circular stone structures, the ancient hideouts for royal hunters.

Stone structures for the shooters were located all over

Picture the scene – holes perfectly positioned for aiming, a glimpse into the past where kings and their entourages stalked their prey and often obliged the British rulers by allowing them a hunting experience. It was like stepping into a time capsule!

But the real showstopper? The sunrise. Oh my goodness! The desert skyline, painted in the hues of gold and crimson, was a spectacle that made every sleepy eye sparkle.


The sun has started rising.

Seeing the mesmerising beauty of the sky just before sunrise and the sun rising a little higher with each passing minute.  It was pure magic!


The sun has risen and looks so magnificent

We finally reached a small water body surrounded by lush green trees in the middle of India’s largest desert. It was nothing short of a marvel.


A waterbody to help animals to quench their thirst

The gardener who accompanied the Princess of Jaisalmer at the time of her wedding must have been an expert in growing trees in the desert. What an incredible job was performed by that nameless hero!

All good things must end, so this dream also ended. We were back at the palace, greeted with a breakfast feast – a delightful mix of Rajasthani cuisine and Western delights. It was a perfect ending to a perfect morning.

Wait, wait, it is not the end yet!

The magnificent Banyan Tree

Against the trunk of the Banyan tree

After the sumptuous breakfast, we decided to walk around the property and reached behind the dining hall. And what we found there! A huge Banyan tree with a massive trunk. Must be at least 200 years old!

Motivated by that treat to the eyes, we decided to explore the rest of the property. Every building, every tree had been a moot spectator to the bye-gone era but was silently eloquent as we trod along.

A  broken tree trunk is nurturing new trees
Try to see some images in the tree trunk 













Talking of the Gajner Sanctuary, I feel it is not just a place; it was an adventure waiting to happen. If you are craving a dose of the wild, a dash of history, and a sunrise that will steal your breath away, this is your spot!

Mesmerising open spaces where one could spend hours, meditating or reading a book.

(To continue)


*****

PS

Here are a few rare pics of Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary shared by Er Swaraj Jain, who was one of the key organisers of this amazing rendezvous to Gajner (Bikaner). My heartfelt thanks to him for sharing these!





















*****

Tuesday, 8 April 2025

RAJASTHAN RHAPSODY (GAJNER) 2025: Day 01- 03

SUPER SENIORS SPARKLE AT GAJNER PALACE 

Hold on to your breath, folks! A whirlwind adventure at the magnificent Gajner Palace in Bikaner has just begun. It is only the forenoon of the first day, but so much has already happened. And let me tell you, it was nothing short of magic!


A century old tall trees guarding the natural red stone terraces

We forgot our age, ignored the high temperature of the desert and laughed like teenagers because this trip was about living it up just the way we were six decades ago!


Enjoying the swing, reliving our younger days

Day one had started with the excitement of seeing the newly renovated IGIA T1 airport, early flights, meeting new friends, and the sheer grandeur of the heritage fort. We cruised along the serene Gajner Lake, soaking in the tranquillity, before diving head-on into a royal Rajasthani feast for lunch. (Okay, maybe a little spicy, but who is complaining? Did we not have a sachet of Eno or a tablet of Digene ready in the bag?) The taste buds reigned supreme, and no one thought of the blood sugar levels rising or the anti-cholesterol medicine we were to take.

Having devoured a delicious meal, we felt that a short siesta was in order! A cosy bed in an air-conditioned room after a hearty meal was very inviting. And we sprawled in bed for, I do not know how long.

"Beep... beep... beep!" The phone jolted me awake – the evening party was getting started, and our absence was holding everybody back! Hopping out of bed, we rushed to the Dining Room, the party venue. It was Tambola time! Well.. well! I am not a Tambola pro, but the energy was infectious. We were all hollering and cheering, and those prizes vanished faster than a plate of pakoras! And speaking of snacks, the crunchies and chai were the perfect fuel for our evening escapades.

Then, the magic truly began. We gathered in the palace courtyard under a canopy of ancient trees, twinkling stars in the sky and fairy lights on the ground. 

The lights are ethnic. The charcoal in the bar-be-que is fired. The chefs are ready to cook.


The air crackled with anticipation, and the aroma of charcoal from the barbecue was inviting.

We were ready to be entertained! And wow, how we were entertained! A troupe of Rajasthani folk singers and Kalbelia dancers took the stage, and the atmosphere exploded with vibrant music and mesmerizing moves. 


The musicians are ready to entertain us with Rajasthani folk music.

That Kalbelia dancer? Forget flexibility; was she made of rubber! Bending backwards to pick up a currency note with her mouth? Jaw-dropping!


Oh my God! Is she made of rubber? Bending over backwards like a U-pin is unimaginable. 

Suddenly, many of us were on our feet, dancing like there was no tomorrow! Knee pain? Backaches? Gone! The spirit fuelled the spirit, and we were lost in the “Masti ka Aalam.” We were all young again, swept away by the rhythm and sheer joy of the moment. We, the 10 PM bedroom light switchers, danced till midnight! Midnight! 

Gajner Palace wasn’t just a place; it was an experience. It was laughter, music, dance, and the pure, unadulterated joy of being alive. It was a reminder that age is just a number and that adventure awaits at every turn! One only needs a lively company and a will to have fun.

 

The party is on, the mood is high. Life is not just good: it is excellent.

At Gajner Palace, we had a strong dose of Rajasthani magic in an old-world charm. Memories were being made every moment, and the spirit of celebration never faded!

Use of chimneys of the hurricane lanterns to create the ethnic look. 

Stay tuned for more tales from our super senior adventure in Bikaner! Until then, laugh boisterously and enjoy life with friends.

(To continue)

*****